Sunday, July 22, 2007

 

Galatea

Daisy had called me earlier in the week about getting out today. We pondered several suggestions she had, and settled on this one.

I met her on the road to her place at 7:20 in the morning (it being totally dug up due to new subdivisions sprouting all around her place,) and we headed out directly. There was some concern initially about the heat, with forecast highs at around 30C, but as it turned out, temperature was not a factor.

At the Galatea parking lot, I chose a spot that I hoped would be sheltered from the sun by late afternoon. From the trailhead, it's a long downhill walk to a lovely suspension bridge over the Kananaskis River, and then we were in the forest.

This was a long lovely walk through forest, all the while gaining altitude. The trail criss-crosses Galatea Creek for almost five and a half kilometres. The Gem-Trek map says there are ten crossings, and all are the quaint half log bridges that seem to be everywhere in the Kananaskis.

At times we were deep in the forest, and then we'd be on a steep rock face, with the creek noisily rambling far below. A couple of places crossed run-off dry beds. As we gained altitude, the forest lost only a little of it's lushness.

At the fork to Guinn's Pass, we stopped to check out a new sign with a map of the area, and the "you are here" rivet. Less than a kilometre further, and we were at Lillian Lake, and the Galatea campground. Several campers were out fishing on the edge of the lake, from the many tiny clearings on it's edge. It's a beautiful spot, with the forest growing right to the edge of the deep green water.

We took the fork to the right, around the campground, and were soon in switchbacking through the forest above. Occasional views revealed nothing of any camping activity, save for an outhouse in a small clearing.

Shortly, we were out of the trees and on the edge of run-off scree, following a well used path, and then back into forest as the terrain leveled off, and began to drop to the Lower Galatea Lake. Just at the high point of this part of the path, was one of the neatest things about this high jumbly terrain. A couple of brooks sprouted out of the ground, one rushing back to Lillian Lake, the other going the other way to the Lower Galatea.

The path continued along the edge of some forest on the east end of the lake, and then continued across scree that dropped steeply to the water. This path stayed high up on the scree, maybe twenty metres above the water, but dropped almost to water level after crossing the remnants of a snow bank. And then dipped below the water.

The water level must be quite high right now. We could see the path along the edge of the lake, at times half a metre below the surface. Beyond, the depth increased swiftly, and the steep scree disappeared into the depths. This is one deep lake.

Another thing is that the Galatea lakes are an incredible deep blue, very different from the green of Lillian Lake.

At the far end of the lake, the path continued up a headwall, with mostly ground cover vegetation, and a sprinkling of trees. And over the headwall was the Upper Galatea Lake. We were about two and a half hours into the hike.

So where to go? And should we continue? Contrary to the forecast, the sky above was fully overcast, and the wind, while only a little on the brisk side, had a definite chill in it.

The slope continued upward, and was quite climbable, and we still hadn't topped 2200 metres, so up we went. At times we followed rock bands until we could get on top of them. We gained altitude quickly, over flower covered gravel and rock bands. We got on top of a ridge that climbed southward, and hid a snow filled trench that ran along the bottom of the shear wall of The Tower, which boxed in the west end of the valley.

At 2450 metres, we encountered an large inukshuk, and since it was just past noon, and the terrain started to rise steeply to the ridge along the south side of the valley, we decided it was lunch time. And with the wind picking up, time to don another layer.

The ridge we were on turns into a scree slope not far from where we stopped, and then a rockband crosses westward. It looked quite climbable, as did a notch directly south of us, again at the top of steep scree. It was tempting to see what might be on the other side, but we'd pretty much achieved what we'd set out to do for this day. So a couple of scrambles for next time.

After lunch, we went down. Straight down. Instead of retracing our steps down the ridge to the right, Daisy decided we could go directly east. It was a little intimidating, but she's an expert at finding the way, and also knows what is do-able when slopes get steep. There were some dicey moments (for me, anyway, but I didn't let on) but I managed to more or less keep up.

We switch-backed to a dry waterfall that went straight down, and looked to go almost vertical below us. Daisy picked a path to the left, and we finally got on to the meadow, still steep, but at least I didn't have to look for hand holds.

Most shocking was after we were down, Daisy looked back and marveled at what we'd descended. I think she was surprised at how impassable it looked from below. For me, I felt I'd just done the almost-impossible. Unbelievably exhilarating.

We continued across the scree to above the headwall holding in the upper lake, and again encountered a steep descent. Mostly dirt and vegetation, this, so it was easy to get footholds. But it was still something to climb down this steep face, not knowing if there would be an impassible rock band that we'd have to climb back up to get around. The lady has an impeccable trail finding talent.

We kept above the lower lake as well, crossing runoff channels in the scree after doffing the extra layers we'd put on at the inukshuk. There was a waterfall that sprouted out of the rock in the ridge, cascading down only to disappear suddenly under a snow bank still well above us. We continued, cutting straight across to the top of the headwall holding it in, where the two streams popped out of the ground.

After that it was a headlong plunge down the valley. It may be a little pathetic, but I'm quite proud of being able to keep up with Daisy. She sets a pretty brisk pace, both going up and going down.

Lots of traffic on the way down, with several people around the lower lake, and on the trail to it. Conservation officers were suddenly right behind us, but we quickly lost them as they stopped to chat with all the people heading up with fishing rods.

We cut through the campground at Lillian Lake to check it out. Lots of tents, but it seemed to be about half full. And so many along the shore of that beautiful green water.

And then it was into the forest and down, retracing our steps, and chatting about everything. We stopped at one bridge where a couple were taking each other's picture with the creek flowing out of a small canyon behind, and offered to take one of both of them.

By mid afternoon, we were back in the parking lot, by this time filled to overflowing with cars. There's something to be said for an early start.

Galatea
Starting elevation: 1551 m (5089 feet).
Highest elevation: 2458 m (8064 feet).
Lowest elevation: 1523 m (4997feet).
Elevation gain: 907 m (2976 feet).
Distance: 19.2 km (11.9 mi).
Time: 6:47.

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